Mediterranean red coral
A living material, born of the sea and worked by hand. Since antiquity it has been worn for protection — and for its deep beauty.
Born of Medusa's blood
Mythology gives coral a spectacular origin. According to Ovid, after severing Medusa’s head, Perseus laid it on seaweed at the water’s edge; the Gorgon’s petrifying gaze turned the seaweed into red branches — and coral was born.
A beautiful image: violence turned into beauty, then into protection. For since antiquity, across the Mediterranean, red coral has been worn to ward off the evil eye. The Romans already tied it around their children’s necks.
Two thousand years on, we can still read Pliny the Elder: a branch of coral hung around a child’s neck “is said to keep them safe”. He did write “is said to” — he was reporting a belief, not settling it. We do the same. Later, the red of coral came to evoke the blood of Christ; in Corsica, it is often found around the neck of the infant Jesus.
Protection against the evil eye
In Corsica, people guard against the ochju — the “evil eye”: an envious glance, even an unintended one, long viewed with caution. Red coral is, together with Saint Lucy’s eye, its traditional charm.
The red thread running through these coral pieces is more than a detail: in several Mediterranean traditions, the colour red itself keeps the evil eye away. Here, almost every object carries an intention.
The horn (cornicellu)
The little curved horn wards off the evil eye and brings good luck.
The cupolini
The small polished coral tubes that make up the bracelets and necklaces.
The red thread
A quiet safeguard against the ochju, woven into the heart of the piece.
A rare material, a regulated harvest
Mediterranean red coral (Corallium rubrum) is not a stone: it is the skeleton of a marine animal, which grows very slowly — a few millimetres a year — and stays fragile. Polished, it reveals its lustre.
It is a protected species, and its fishing is among the most tightly controlled in the Mediterranean. It is reserved for licensed professionals, the corailleurs — a word that covers both trades: the diver who harvests it, and the craftsman who works and polishes it.
In practice, harvesting is done by hand, with a hammer, by divers, under precise rules:
- a branch may only be taken if its base measures at least 7 mm;
- fishing is forbidden above 50 metres;
- volumes are capped by annual quotas;
- licences are issued by the State, in very small numbers.
A private individual may not collect coral — not even a fragment found on the beach. That is the counterpart of this protection.
How many are there? A few dozen in France, no more: the State keeps a named list of those licensed to harvest it, renewed every year. It is a deep and dangerous trade — you descend, you work with a hammer, you come back up slowly. Behind every branch that becomes a piece of jewellery lies one of those very rare dives.
At Torre del Greco, a branch becomes a jewel only after several stages: it is sawn, turned, polished — and, for the finest pieces, the material is engraved by hand, layer after layer. This is the art of the cameo. The town has been training its coral engravers since the late nineteenth century.
The coral we offer comes from that licensed supply chain, and is most often worked in Torre del Greco, near Naples — the world capital of coral for centuries. With every purchase we hand over a “genuine coral” card. We would rather explain it than hide it.
Real coral or imitation?
Real coral
Slight natural irregularities, shifting shades of red within a single piece, a surface never perfectly uniform — and a weight that surprises for the size.
Imitation
Resin, paste or dyed bamboo coral: too regular, too uniform, too light.
Caring for your coral
Coral may take on a slight patina over time. To bring back its lustre, feed it with an oil — a drop of castor or sweet almond oil — and never rub it.
Avoid harsh products and knocks: it is a delicate material, one that passes down the generations if you treat it well.
Frequently asked questions
Yes. It is neither plastic nor wax, but a genuine precious natural resource: Mediterranean red coral.
It has taken on a little patina. Feed it with a drop of mild oil (castor or sweet almond), without rubbing — it will regain its lustre.
No: red coral is a protected species and its harvesting is reserved for licensed professionals. Collecting coral — even washed-up pieces — is not permitted. Ours comes from a regulated supply chain.
Mediterranean red coral is not listed under CITES, but its harvest is strictly regulated: by diving, below 50 metres, on colonies of at least 7 millimetres, with very few state licences. Buying and wearing a coral jewel is, however, entirely free.
Weight, touch, natural irregularities: the tell-tale signs are detailed in our guide to recognising real coral — and in the shop we show you the difference with a piece in hand. A serious seller must always be able to tell you exactly what you are buying.
Above all avoid pools, perfume and cosmetics: coral is an organic material that dislikes chemistry. After a swim in the sea, rinse it in clear water and dry it gently. If it dulls, a drop of mild oil revives its glow.
Discover the coral in the shop
Every piece has its story — and it is better told in person. Come and see us on rue Clemenceau; we will take it out of the window for you.
1 rue Clemenceau, 20260 Calvi
04 95 56 60 24 · @ebellecose_calvi